I just spent my entire weekend working and had the best time. I went out to the East of the country to talk with people and learn more about the issues in the agricultural sector. Macedonia is a very small country (of only 2 million people) so it was only a two hour drive from the capital Skopje, to Strumica (pronounced Strumizza).
On the way out there was plenty of opportunity for good conversation with my translator, who is a piano accompanist by training who worked for the Opera of Macedonia, but has switched careers because of the lack of opportunity for growth in the world of music here. She is a multi-talented lady and is by far the best translator I have ever worked with. To my surprise, she told me that life under Tito was not so bad. Sure, you could not speak out against the government, but crime was low, there was a healthy middle class and only some people were a little worse off. Now there is much greater economic disparity, the number of very poor people is growing, and crime is increasing. Under Tito they had a good living, they could afford to go on holiday once or twice a year, and they were allowed to listen to Western music and drink Coke. Live was good.
On the drive I was also able to learn about some of the environmental damage from industrial development. The worst example that I saw was the town of Vesen which was a former industrial center producing metals. The town now has a very high rate of birth defects and the government is debating what to do. With the high costs of clean-up, I cannot see any action being taken any time soon. I also drove past mine heaps as big as the surrounding mountains, areas of massive erosion, and I’m sure I am only scratching the surface of the environmental problems in the country. And yet, people have talked about the potential for organic vegetable production here – do they not know that entails testing the soil to ensure it is not contaminated?
On Saturday I had meetings with the owners of a vegetable bottling company, a dairy, the president of the Association of Cow Breeders, and a vegetable farmer. All of the meetings were extremely interesting, but by far the best was last. This vegetable farmer was a true businessman who understood the market place and had traveled to Kosovo and arranged a contract with a supermarket to export his crop when the local traders were refusing to pay a reasonable price. But in talking to him, I began to understand some of the obstacles facing farmers here. Like in many places, when one person is successful, others try to bring them back in line. The corruption, intense political influence, lack of access to finance, and suspicion amongst farmers and between farmers and traders/processors all provided obstacles that proved insurmountable and he was unable to fulfill the contract.
I spent Saturday night in Strumica and then headed to Negotino on Sunday morning bright and early. I spent most of the day with the grape producers. There were riots in Macedonia last year because the wineries would not pay the farmers for their grapes. In fact, one of the two large wineries (both of which were previously government owned) still has not paid farmers for last year’s harvest which was 13 month ago. The wineries argue that then do not have the funds as they have not yet sold the wine and they need to service their debt first. So essentially the farmers are shouldering the debt of the wineries. When the protests started to grow, donors got concerned and stepped in and loaned the largest winery funds to pay the farmers. On the other hand, the small wineries have exellent relationships with their farmers.
The final stop in Negotino was a visit to the homes of two sheep producers. The sheep are kept for their milk (which is also made into cheese) and for lamb meat. I sat and interviewed both farmers in their one communal room, with the extended family sitting on the sofa and the Macedonian version of MTV playing in the background. I of course, was asked to sample their cheese, and I accepted. I have now learned first-hand of the need to improve the quality of locally produced cheese! It tasted good, but I didn’t feel so good the following day.
On the way back to the Skopje, we stopped off at what I was told was some ruins. It turned out to be ruines of the Roman city of Scupi from the 3-5th century AD. Given that Rome converted to Christianity around the 4th century, the ruins provided an interesting example of a church being built on top of an old synagogue. Unfortunately, the site is only partially excavated and there is no good explanation of what you are looking at. Supposedly the government looks into excavating and developing the site everyone once in a while, but the government of Greece intervenes in a variety of creative ways to prevent its development as Greece does not want the competition for historical tourism.
I feel like I have not done the weekend justice with these brief notes. I could write pages on each of the visits, but time is not my friend at the moment. I still have to type up all the many pages of notes from these many interesting meetings.
Monday, October 23, 2006
Friday, October 20, 2006
Field bound
This is going to be a super-quick post as I am rushing to pack up my suitcase and deliver it to my colleague's room before she goes to sleep. I am checking out of the hotel tomorrow and heading into the field for a couple of days to visit some farms, dairy processors, vegetable canneries, cheese makers, grape farmers, and of course wineries. I am so lucky to have this job. I told my colleagues today that I was looking forward to this weekend of getting my hands dirty and they looked at my like I am nuts (they are both finance and business development people). But then they admitted that there are those who fall into the field of development - most people in business/finance and development - and then there are those in this field with a passion for what they do. I just love it.
Back late on Sunday night, but I'm sure I'll have lots to write about.
Back late on Sunday night, but I'm sure I'll have lots to write about.
Thursday, October 19, 2006
Sunny or Grey?
I'm in Macedonia for 10 days to gather info for an upcoming private sector development project that will include agriculture. Macedonia is very different from the places where I usually work. It's practically in Europe - well at least it is hoping to become part of the EU in 2012. But it was also a part of the Soviet Union (as part of Yugoslavia) so it still has not fully shaken the old command economy mentality.
One of my colleagues asked me if Macedonia is more like sunny Italy, which is just across the Adriatic, or more like the grey Soviet Union. After just one day in country, I would answer that it is probably somewhere in between. The expansive central square and the central post office building, which is a dull grey monstrosity of cement that dominates its surrounds, are very CIS. On the other hand all along the river are lively outdoor cafés filled with fashionable young people that are (vaguely) reminiscent of Paris.
It looks like I will be spending the weekend out in the field visiting farms, processing companies, orchards and sheep herders. Oh, and as wine is one of the high-potential sectors here, I will be visiting grape growers and yes, wineries. I am always amazed by (and thankful for) the opportunities that I have to see different aspects of the countries I visit.
My suitcase arrived today and I was so happy to get out of the clothes that I had been wearing for more than 48 hours. I finished off the day with dinner with my colleagues at an Irish pub with a very bad meal and a glass of surprisingly good Macedonian red wine.
One of my colleagues asked me if Macedonia is more like sunny Italy, which is just across the Adriatic, or more like the grey Soviet Union. After just one day in country, I would answer that it is probably somewhere in between. The expansive central square and the central post office building, which is a dull grey monstrosity of cement that dominates its surrounds, are very CIS. On the other hand all along the river are lively outdoor cafés filled with fashionable young people that are (vaguely) reminiscent of Paris.
It looks like I will be spending the weekend out in the field visiting farms, processing companies, orchards and sheep herders. Oh, and as wine is one of the high-potential sectors here, I will be visiting grape growers and yes, wineries. I am always amazed by (and thankful for) the opportunities that I have to see different aspects of the countries I visit.
My suitcase arrived today and I was so happy to get out of the clothes that I had been wearing for more than 48 hours. I finished off the day with dinner with my colleagues at an Irish pub with a very bad meal and a glass of surprisingly good Macedonian red wine.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Macademia?
The next chapter in my adventure had me leaving my little house in DC in the middle of a downpour yesterday morning to head to Macedonia. The bad weather was my only immediate incentive to get on the plane for what will hopefully be sunnier climes given my current state. I am completely sleep deprived thanks to the city of DC that I actually fell asleep in the taxi on the way to the airport – as in mouth open, good dreams, asleep. Two weeks ago the city dug a huge hole in the street in front of my house and covered it with 6 steel plates which literally bounce every time a car drives over send out a small earthquake of earth-shattering noise and vibrations when a truck or bus drives over them. So it’s been a sleepless couple of weeks.
So I thought the trip could only get better from there. Hah! The check-in line at the airport was a mile long. When I got to the front, they informed me that the flight was delayed by an hour. Well, we ended up boarding 1.5 hours late, at which point I knew I would miss my connection in Switzerland. The very helpful airline people managed to get me on another flight, but I had to sprint a lap of the terminal to pick up the new ticket before they finished boarding the plane. I was the last passenger on the plane, and we then sat on the runway for another hour due to a maintenance problem. Needless to say, by the time I finally arrived in Macedonia 3.5 hours late, my luggage was not there to meet me. So I am stuck wearing the same coffee stained pants tomorrow – a flight attendant spilled hot coffee in my lap.
I’m now off to try and get some sleep and I am absolutely convinced that things can only get better from here!
So I thought the trip could only get better from there. Hah! The check-in line at the airport was a mile long. When I got to the front, they informed me that the flight was delayed by an hour. Well, we ended up boarding 1.5 hours late, at which point I knew I would miss my connection in Switzerland. The very helpful airline people managed to get me on another flight, but I had to sprint a lap of the terminal to pick up the new ticket before they finished boarding the plane. I was the last passenger on the plane, and we then sat on the runway for another hour due to a maintenance problem. Needless to say, by the time I finally arrived in Macedonia 3.5 hours late, my luggage was not there to meet me. So I am stuck wearing the same coffee stained pants tomorrow – a flight attendant spilled hot coffee in my lap.
I’m now off to try and get some sleep and I am absolutely convinced that things can only get better from here!
Friday, June 02, 2006
Afghan soldier
I just checked in for my flight home from Addis. There was an American in line before me and I noticed an Afghan flag on his bag so I mistakenly asked him when he had been there. “June 04 to July 05”, he said. Oh no, he is military. I then found myself at a complete loss for words. My first reaction is to attack him for the atrocities in Afghanistan last week. My second reaction is to ask him his perspective. In the end I say nothing.
I caught the tail end of a preview for a CNN show at 4 am this morning when I was a little sleepy, but I swear I heard them say, “...responds to reports of US troops shooting unarmed civilians in Kabul.” CNN showed the footage of US troops shooting unarmed civilians - I saw it with my own eyes - so why are they now talking about “reports” of murder? The footage showed a US army Hummer driving down a street in Kabul firing off to the side into the crowd. Don't believe the reports that soldiers may have fired over the heads of civilians when they were trapped and surrounded by a rock throwing crowd after a car accident that was caused by break failure. CNN also showed a still photo of this car accident that stared off the whole incident. There were three Hummers in the photo involved in the accident. I also have it from good authority that it was not break failure but rather reckless driving - speeding - that caused the accident (which also explains how three Hummers were in the same accident). CNN told the true story right after the incident but now is playing a different tune. True propaganda.
I am so disappointed in my country: the military, the government, but most of all, the media. If they are lying to the people about this, how many other times have they covered for the US military?
As for the soldier and the many others like him, I don't know how I feel. I know they are generally good people doing service for our country, or maybe less idealistically: poor people who use military service as a way out. I generally just feel sorry for them. They are brainwashed as I suppose they need to be and I know they do not understand the issues. I had lunch with a former British Special Forces officer while I was in Afghanistan a couple of weeks ago. He was asking me about my reasons for being vegetarian. I told him that I cannot disengage my mind to distinguish between the meat on plate and the animal in the field, and so I feel guilty eating meat. He replied that he feels the same way, but he feels no guilt when shooting an enemy combatant. I guess you have to have a supreme level of arrogance and faith that you are in the right to be able to kill another human being in cold blood and believe that you are right.
I caught the tail end of a preview for a CNN show at 4 am this morning when I was a little sleepy, but I swear I heard them say, “...responds to reports of US troops shooting unarmed civilians in Kabul.” CNN showed the footage of US troops shooting unarmed civilians - I saw it with my own eyes - so why are they now talking about “reports” of murder? The footage showed a US army Hummer driving down a street in Kabul firing off to the side into the crowd. Don't believe the reports that soldiers may have fired over the heads of civilians when they were trapped and surrounded by a rock throwing crowd after a car accident that was caused by break failure. CNN also showed a still photo of this car accident that stared off the whole incident. There were three Hummers in the photo involved in the accident. I also have it from good authority that it was not break failure but rather reckless driving - speeding - that caused the accident (which also explains how three Hummers were in the same accident). CNN told the true story right after the incident but now is playing a different tune. True propaganda.
I am so disappointed in my country: the military, the government, but most of all, the media. If they are lying to the people about this, how many other times have they covered for the US military?
As for the soldier and the many others like him, I don't know how I feel. I know they are generally good people doing service for our country, or maybe less idealistically: poor people who use military service as a way out. I generally just feel sorry for them. They are brainwashed as I suppose they need to be and I know they do not understand the issues. I had lunch with a former British Special Forces officer while I was in Afghanistan a couple of weeks ago. He was asking me about my reasons for being vegetarian. I told him that I cannot disengage my mind to distinguish between the meat on plate and the animal in the field, and so I feel guilty eating meat. He replied that he feels the same way, but he feels no guilt when shooting an enemy combatant. I guess you have to have a supreme level of arrogance and faith that you are in the right to be able to kill another human being in cold blood and believe that you are right.
Hard day
What a way to end a trip. I spent the first eight hours of the day locked up in the hotel slaving away on the evaluation report and using up all my brain cells - so I felt like I deserved a little treat this evening.
I first went for a run in the gym and managed a whole 6km, which at 2,000 meters (6,000 ft) is actually quite an accomplishment and not bad for my triathlon training. I got off the treadmill 10 minutes late for my massage appointment which was not exactly enjoyable but definitely good after the fact as I had requested a “strong” masseuse – the employees thought that was hysterical and told me that they gave me a fat masseuse. I then went and sat in the sauna for 20 minutes and detoxed. After a shower I checked my email, chatted with one friend in Addis, one in New York, and one in DC – gotta love instant messanger. I finished off the evening with pizza delivered via room service. A perfect relaxing evening to prepare me for a 4am wakeup call for a 7am departure to DC via London. Speaking of which, it’s now 9pm, time to book that ride to the airport and get some sleep.
I first went for a run in the gym and managed a whole 6km, which at 2,000 meters (6,000 ft) is actually quite an accomplishment and not bad for my triathlon training. I got off the treadmill 10 minutes late for my massage appointment which was not exactly enjoyable but definitely good after the fact as I had requested a “strong” masseuse – the employees thought that was hysterical and told me that they gave me a fat masseuse. I then went and sat in the sauna for 20 minutes and detoxed. After a shower I checked my email, chatted with one friend in Addis, one in New York, and one in DC – gotta love instant messanger. I finished off the evening with pizza delivered via room service. A perfect relaxing evening to prepare me for a 4am wakeup call for a 7am departure to DC via London. Speaking of which, it’s now 9pm, time to book that ride to the airport and get some sleep.
Thursday, June 01, 2006
Disgrace
I am sitting here in my hotel room in Mekele, Ethiopia shaking. I just saw footage of a US armored vehicle firing a machine gun into a crowd of civilians in Kabul, Afghanistan. I feel nauseous and dizzy but most of all I am irate! I don’t even think I can write rationally at this point.
I heard there were riots in Kabul this morning. Then an email from Afghanistan told me that the situation was far worse than what was being reported on CNN, but I still could not imagine how bad it could be. Footage is being broadcast around the world of American soldiers shooting Afghan civilians armed only with rocks, which they were throwing at a US convoy because three vehicles had been speeding through the city as usual and had killed a child in a car accident. The footage is very clear – it cannot be misinterpreted. The US military spokesman made a statement to say that all families will be compensated for their loss. How dare he say that? How can financial compensation make up for careless loss of life? CNN has since pulled the footage and is falling into line - not reporting at all on the fact that US soldiers shot unarmed civilians. And we think we have free press? I am sure that the US will pay dearly for this rash act by arrogant untrained uncultured soldiers and I have to say that at this moment while it does not justify their actions, I can understand the motivation of the perpetrators.
Just three weeks ago I was in Kabul at the ISAF (international security force in Afghanistan) craft fair. Because the soldiers are not allowed off their compound, they have a craft fair on the base every Friday. I felt very uncomfortable in their midst. I was very aware of all the guns around me and had a suspicion that all it would take was one shot and suddenly everyone would be firing in all directions. I was also uncomfortable because of the conversations around me between the soldiers and the Afghans selling their wares. I was acutely aware that these soldiers from all over the world (Australia, Spain, France, Italy, the UK and the US) were completely insensitive to the Afghan culture and I was embarrassed to be there. I did not want to be associated with these people and while the other development workers I was there with chatted to the soldiers, I kept my distance.
In one swift move these soldiers have now put Afghanistan on an entirely different path. If I was home, I would protest my own government loudly and vehemently – I am truly ashamed to be an American and want someone to pay for this despicable act! It is going to be difficult to claim that this was a one time infraction with the ongoing case in Iraq where it is claimed that US soldiers entered into houses and killed innocent civilians. I now have no doubt that this is true and have no words for the repulsion I feel towards my own government and the soldiers that do their dirty work. The irony of my present location is not lost on me. The Ethiopian government shot 60 protesters armed with rocks last year – my own government has just put themselves on the same level.
I heard there were riots in Kabul this morning. Then an email from Afghanistan told me that the situation was far worse than what was being reported on CNN, but I still could not imagine how bad it could be. Footage is being broadcast around the world of American soldiers shooting Afghan civilians armed only with rocks, which they were throwing at a US convoy because three vehicles had been speeding through the city as usual and had killed a child in a car accident. The footage is very clear – it cannot be misinterpreted. The US military spokesman made a statement to say that all families will be compensated for their loss. How dare he say that? How can financial compensation make up for careless loss of life? CNN has since pulled the footage and is falling into line - not reporting at all on the fact that US soldiers shot unarmed civilians. And we think we have free press? I am sure that the US will pay dearly for this rash act by arrogant untrained uncultured soldiers and I have to say that at this moment while it does not justify their actions, I can understand the motivation of the perpetrators.
Just three weeks ago I was in Kabul at the ISAF (international security force in Afghanistan) craft fair. Because the soldiers are not allowed off their compound, they have a craft fair on the base every Friday. I felt very uncomfortable in their midst. I was very aware of all the guns around me and had a suspicion that all it would take was one shot and suddenly everyone would be firing in all directions. I was also uncomfortable because of the conversations around me between the soldiers and the Afghans selling their wares. I was acutely aware that these soldiers from all over the world (Australia, Spain, France, Italy, the UK and the US) were completely insensitive to the Afghan culture and I was embarrassed to be there. I did not want to be associated with these people and while the other development workers I was there with chatted to the soldiers, I kept my distance.
In one swift move these soldiers have now put Afghanistan on an entirely different path. If I was home, I would protest my own government loudly and vehemently – I am truly ashamed to be an American and want someone to pay for this despicable act! It is going to be difficult to claim that this was a one time infraction with the ongoing case in Iraq where it is claimed that US soldiers entered into houses and killed innocent civilians. I now have no doubt that this is true and have no words for the repulsion I feel towards my own government and the soldiers that do their dirty work. The irony of my present location is not lost on me. The Ethiopian government shot 60 protesters armed with rocks last year – my own government has just put themselves on the same level.
Democracy
One day in Mekele I found myself heading off to a meeting on my own in the car with one of the drivers. As soon as we had pulled out of the parking lot of the hotel, he turned to me and told me, “TPLF is democracy”.
TPLF is the Tigray People’s Liberation Front. It started out as a resistance group that built an army, launched a war, and eventually managed to defeat the military regime in Ethiopia, the Derg, in 1991. It then became a political party and has since been the ruling party of Ethiopia. The problem is that the ruling party was responsible for the massacre of 60 unarmed protestors last year (some in the back). Supposedly, they thought they were facing an insurrection driven by the Diaspora which explains why the government-owned cell phone company (a monopoly) has banned text messaging. So Tigray, the strong-hold of the party, is a very politically contentious region that is pretty much despised by the rest of the country. At the same time, the people of Tigray are desperately poor as it is a very arid region and has frequent famines and is in the far north on the border with Eritrea and has been the battleground for almost all of Ethiopia’s wars over the past few centuries, including the Ethiopian-Eritrean war from 1998-2000 which resulted in hundreds of thousands of deaths.
I am here evaluating a project that provides funding directly to the government of Tigray, so it is a very politically contentious evaluation. The staff of the organization implementing the project does not even think that the organization should be supporting the government in this way or working here at all and many of the staff avoid coming to the project area as much as they possibly can. On the other hand, the few staff that are based in Tigray support the government and the project. A very difficult evaluation.
The driver had obviously overheard conversation from the backseat and perceived that we were not exactly supportive of the TPLF (although I have made an effort not to openly discuss local politics here as my view is not the general view of the population). The driver wanted to be sure that I heard his side of the story. He told me in broken English that since the TPLF came to power the living conditions of the people of Tigray have improved and are vastly better than they were under the Derg. It is impossible to make him believe that the economic situation could be even better and it should not be traded off against his freedom.
TPLF is the Tigray People’s Liberation Front. It started out as a resistance group that built an army, launched a war, and eventually managed to defeat the military regime in Ethiopia, the Derg, in 1991. It then became a political party and has since been the ruling party of Ethiopia. The problem is that the ruling party was responsible for the massacre of 60 unarmed protestors last year (some in the back). Supposedly, they thought they were facing an insurrection driven by the Diaspora which explains why the government-owned cell phone company (a monopoly) has banned text messaging. So Tigray, the strong-hold of the party, is a very politically contentious region that is pretty much despised by the rest of the country. At the same time, the people of Tigray are desperately poor as it is a very arid region and has frequent famines and is in the far north on the border with Eritrea and has been the battleground for almost all of Ethiopia’s wars over the past few centuries, including the Ethiopian-Eritrean war from 1998-2000 which resulted in hundreds of thousands of deaths.
I am here evaluating a project that provides funding directly to the government of Tigray, so it is a very politically contentious evaluation. The staff of the organization implementing the project does not even think that the organization should be supporting the government in this way or working here at all and many of the staff avoid coming to the project area as much as they possibly can. On the other hand, the few staff that are based in Tigray support the government and the project. A very difficult evaluation.
The driver had obviously overheard conversation from the backseat and perceived that we were not exactly supportive of the TPLF (although I have made an effort not to openly discuss local politics here as my view is not the general view of the population). The driver wanted to be sure that I heard his side of the story. He told me in broken English that since the TPLF came to power the living conditions of the people of Tigray have improved and are vastly better than they were under the Derg. It is impossible to make him believe that the economic situation could be even better and it should not be traded off against his freedom.
Climbing to Salvation
Saturday was my one day off, so myself and two other consultants (an Irishman, a Brit and an American – I’m sure there’s a joke in there somewhere) rented a car, a driver, and a guide and headed off into the middle of nowhere to go explore some ancient churches that were carved directly out of the sides of mountains. The scenery on the drive was spectacular and I was amazed to find myself in an area that looked just like the Arizona desert. If it weren’t for the small cottages constructed of stone, I might have forgotten where I was.
We opted to go to two churches that were considered to be less difficult to get to. Now keep in mind that Mekele is 2,000 meters above sea level and the two churches we visited were at the top of (at least) a 1000 ft high pinnacle, which we had to scale up. I definitely got my exercise for the day. In some places, we were literally climbing up sheer cliff faces using toe holds. The Brit panicked at the sheer drop and went back down, but two of us made it to the top and it was well worth the climb. Not only were the views out of this world, but the churches themselves were spectacular.
It is believed that the churches were built in the 9th to the 15th centuries (up to 1200 hundred years ago) and that they were built in such remote locations to preserve their existence. Ethiopia went through a period of Christian-Muslim wars that resulted in the burning of many churches. Other than that, there is not a lot known about their history, but some historians believe that the Templars were involved in their construction. The religious history of Ethiopia is truly fascinating as this all ties into the Ethiopian claim that they have the original arc of the covenant (the box that housed the original tablets inscribed with the ten commandments that Moses brought down from the mount – see Raiders of the Lost Arc if you want more info!) They believe that the Arc is kept in a specific church in Axum and there is only priest who is allowed to see it and touch it. On his death bed, he names the priest who is to take over his role. If you ever tell an Ethiopian that you heard they believe that they have the arc, they will be completely offended and dumbfounded and simply tell you it is true (and wander why you question it).
We opted to go to two churches that were considered to be less difficult to get to. Now keep in mind that Mekele is 2,000 meters above sea level and the two churches we visited were at the top of (at least) a 1000 ft high pinnacle, which we had to scale up. I definitely got my exercise for the day. In some places, we were literally climbing up sheer cliff faces using toe holds. The Brit panicked at the sheer drop and went back down, but two of us made it to the top and it was well worth the climb. Not only were the views out of this world, but the churches themselves were spectacular.
It is believed that the churches were built in the 9th to the 15th centuries (up to 1200 hundred years ago) and that they were built in such remote locations to preserve their existence. Ethiopia went through a period of Christian-Muslim wars that resulted in the burning of many churches. Other than that, there is not a lot known about their history, but some historians believe that the Templars were involved in their construction. The religious history of Ethiopia is truly fascinating as this all ties into the Ethiopian claim that they have the original arc of the covenant (the box that housed the original tablets inscribed with the ten commandments that Moses brought down from the mount – see Raiders of the Lost Arc if you want more info!) They believe that the Arc is kept in a specific church in Axum and there is only priest who is allowed to see it and touch it. On his death bed, he names the priest who is to take over his role. If you ever tell an Ethiopian that you heard they believe that they have the arc, they will be completely offended and dumbfounded and simply tell you it is true (and wander why you question it).
Fish Out of Water
I feel like I have landed myself in a group of very non-like minded folks.
The only American
The most annoying person that I met in my two years of backpacking was a German guy who started out the conversation by telling me that I had no idea what it like to be from Germany, a country that will never be forgiven for its past. I retorted that he has no idea what it is like to be from a country that will never be forgiven for its present. (Yes, it was a great start to a very brief travel companionship).
Every once in a while I meet someone who delights in belittling the United States and me as an American. The one Brit on the four-person evaluation team (of which I am the only Yank) is really getting a kick out of taking easy shots at the US, which then of course begins a long conversation on all the negatives of the US. I am the first person to provide rational criticism of my own government, but when outsiders take easy pot shots it’s just tacky.
The only non-direct budget support expert
This assignment is an interesting learning experience, but I am feeling a bit like a fish out of water as it is a huge learning curve, but I guess that is one of the advantages of doing “cross-cutting” work – I get to learn about different sectors.
The only feminist (aka self-respecting woman)?
At dinner just now, one of the expat project staff was asking about the lifestyle of an international consultant. I told him about my sometimes crazy (and sometimes not) schedule. “Your life will change when you have children. You will be happy to stay in America” said one Ethiopian at the table. This did not surprise me, even from a highly educated and interesting Ethiopian that I really like – after all, this is a country where the average age of marriage is 13 and half of girls are married by abduction. What amazed me was that everyone around the table readily agreed! The other expats are mostly Brits and they are just so old fashioned, including the one twenty-something woman. Good thing that I am the one evaluating the gender component of the project!
Ahh to be back in Afghanistan surrounded by like-minded people. Okay, maybe not, but at least the other expats that I met out there were cool – and one in particular.
The only American
The most annoying person that I met in my two years of backpacking was a German guy who started out the conversation by telling me that I had no idea what it like to be from Germany, a country that will never be forgiven for its past. I retorted that he has no idea what it is like to be from a country that will never be forgiven for its present. (Yes, it was a great start to a very brief travel companionship).
Every once in a while I meet someone who delights in belittling the United States and me as an American. The one Brit on the four-person evaluation team (of which I am the only Yank) is really getting a kick out of taking easy shots at the US, which then of course begins a long conversation on all the negatives of the US. I am the first person to provide rational criticism of my own government, but when outsiders take easy pot shots it’s just tacky.
The only non-direct budget support expert
This assignment is an interesting learning experience, but I am feeling a bit like a fish out of water as it is a huge learning curve, but I guess that is one of the advantages of doing “cross-cutting” work – I get to learn about different sectors.
The only feminist (aka self-respecting woman)?
At dinner just now, one of the expat project staff was asking about the lifestyle of an international consultant. I told him about my sometimes crazy (and sometimes not) schedule. “Your life will change when you have children. You will be happy to stay in America” said one Ethiopian at the table. This did not surprise me, even from a highly educated and interesting Ethiopian that I really like – after all, this is a country where the average age of marriage is 13 and half of girls are married by abduction. What amazed me was that everyone around the table readily agreed! The other expats are mostly Brits and they are just so old fashioned, including the one twenty-something woman. Good thing that I am the one evaluating the gender component of the project!
Ahh to be back in Afghanistan surrounded by like-minded people. Okay, maybe not, but at least the other expats that I met out there were cool – and one in particular.
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