Sunday, April 30, 2006

Security

We flew into a cloudy Kabul at 3pm and by 7 were in our first meeting held over Afghan food. We met a senior consultant who works with one of our partners on this project who is an internationally renowned agricultural economist, but as a septuagenarian, perhaps past his prime.

His first comment:

“I heard that DAI has a light approach to security”.

Not light – low-key.

He proceeds to describe a recent trip when he (an American) rode off into rural Afghanistan with his (much younger) Afghan wife in a convoy of vehicles. The first and last vehicles were pickup trucks bristling with machine guns. He and his wife are in the middle vehicle, which would be inconspicuous under normal circumstance, but he aptly pointed out that anyone watching would know this was clearly the vehicle to hit. But he still cherishes high profile security. He noted that in the village he was greeted like a king and the locals noted that he must be as important as Karzai as he has as much security as the Afghan president. Our senior consultant was delighted with this esteem boost and pointed out is convinced that this is an additional benefit are some benefits to high-profile security.

My company is sticking with our low-key policy to treat security seriously but arm ourselves with information, local knowledge, local networks, and a good reputation in the community – as well as weapons as and when needed.

Dubai

It’s 11pm and I just got off an 8 hour flight from Paris, which was preceded by a four hour layover in Charles de Gaulle, which was preceded by a seven hour overnight flight which gave new meaning to the term red eye.

I’m checking into the Ramada for a 10 hour respite from the journey before the final leg. I’m tired but not too on-guard as this is just a lay over on my way to Afghanistan where I constantly need to be aware of my surroundings, and those in it, lest I commit some gender specific faux pas or create unnecessary risk for myself.

My male colleague is checking in next to me and I hear the desk clerk offer him something complimentary. My desk clerk offers me nothing. I ask and am begrudgingly given a card for a free drink in the bar – but he tells me not to go alone. Now I am confused (and tired) and I wonder if he thinks I have an alternate career, or if he thinks the hotel is not secure, or if I have completely mis-judged the modernity of Dubai. Any way, I am a little concerned.

In my room I flip through the hotel services booklet. Oooh, they offer massages. But then I read the description – ‘no inappropriate behavior will be tolerated and all such behavior must be reported’. Maybe I’m in the wrong Ramada?