Tuesday, June 10, 2008

The Researcher

I am writing this sitting in the grand reading room of the Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress and I am now officially a guest researcher of the library. I even have my own shelf for books I am borrowing – they are not allowed out of the library.

I have been tinkering around with my family tree for a long time, gathering names, dates, and my favorite part – anecdotes that really tell you something about the person and their times. More recently I have played around with the idea of filling out some of these anecdotes and putting them down on paper. I am focused on the stories of four courageous women in my family who immigrated to Africa (or within Africa in one case) all for very different reasons. One was pushed by the desperation of destitution; another felt trapped by the loss of her place in society from the shame of divorce in Edwardian London; a third moved to rural Africa to get to know the mother she could barely remember; and the last because she refused to live in a country that was racially divided by the rules of apartheid.

For the last six months, I have been piecing together scraps of information gathered from family and figuring out how to fill in the gaps. In scouring the internet and in two visits to London where I explored the National Archives and the Library at the National Maritime Museum I have found my great grandmother’s divorce records, my great grandfather’s will, the detailed shipping notes of the 1880 voyage that brought my great-great-grandmother from Scotland to Durban, and the birth record of my great-great-grandmother’s first husband which revealed that he was illegitimate – which might explain why her parents were so unhappy with the marriage that they disowned her.

My research in the Jefferson Reading Room is about understanding better the context in which these events took place. The Library of Congress is the largest library in the world, which means I have access to such unusual books as:
- Experiences of Rhodesia's pioneer women: being a true account of the adventures of the early white women settlers in Southern Rhodesia from 1890 (ironically, my dad was the author’s veterinarian in Zimbabwe many years ago);
- First steps in civilizing Rhodesia; and,
- Edwardian Stories of Divorce.

Tomorrow my project takes another step forward – I have my first writing class looking at the works of Alice Munroe. Ms. Munroe is an award winning short story writer who has a skill for weaving stories based on family history intertwined with historically accurate threads from her imagination. The course, which is at a local writers’ center, just happened to be offered now that I actually have time to take it. Serendipity.

Friday, June 06, 2008

Being a DC Tourist

I am making the most of my time off, not just being productive getting things done in my house and garden, but also encouraging friends to play hooky and spend the day with me doing fun things. On Thursday, one good friend did just that and we decided to be home grown tourists for the day in DC.

First stop was the Newseum – a museum of the news. The private museum starts visitors with a short video that establishes the context of the museum – presenting both key events in history covered in the news and the history of newsmaking. The video included this quote from Thomas Jefferson in 1786, "Our liberty cannot be guarded but by the freedom of the press, nor that be limited without danger of losing it." But my suspicions were aroused. The video covered the key themes of news: first time events, life and death, discovery, and of course war and peace. They showed several clips from the current conflict in Iraq during the war segment but they included something that just didn’t quite fit – a photograph of Osama Bin Laden, right in the middle of all the Iraq images (not in the later Afghanistan images). Now our wonderful president GWB would like us to believe that Osama is somehow connected to Iraq, but to date, there has been no evidence unearthed of any connection. Interestingly most Americans believe that there is a connection because GWB is so good at his job. It turns out that the Newsuem’s founder is none other than Rupert Murdoch, media tycoon who brought to us the Fox news network and other mouthpieces for the current administration.

The other missing piece in the museum was information on the current administration’s infringement on freedom of the press. There was an exhibit on the embedded reporters that are on the ground in Iraq, but they did not include a discussion on the fact that the military also controls all footage that is allowed to be released by these reporters. Nor did they cover the fact that stories published by reporters (or footage shown on CNN) that portrays a less-than-flattering image of the US quickly disappear. (See my “Afghan Soldier” entry in June 2006). A disappointment to say the least. That said, I will drop the Newseum a line and make sure they are aware of their Osama mistake, but I will say that the rest of the museum was very interesting and informative. As Franklin D. Roosevelt said in 1938, “A free press is essential to us as a people and to the maintenance of our form of government” (another quote from the video).

After a very sunny lunch sitting at the Naval memorial and watching cadets rehearse for their summer Concerts on the Avenue, we went across the street to the National Gallery of Art to see the special exhibit on Afghanistan. Somehow I had not heard of the exhibit, but everyone should know about it. It is a collection of spectacular ancient artifacts from four sites in Afghanistan. The pieces themselves are breathtaking and include a two thousand year old intact plaster bust of a poet, a plate of silver and gold, and a magnificent collapsible gold crown. The history of the objects is equally as fascinating as many are a unique blend of east and west. Maybe the best example of this is a gold statue representing the Greek Goddess Aphrodite but with a South Asian bindi and the wings of an Indian goddess.

Despite the interest in the objects themselves, the exhibit is most amazing for its more recent history. The only reason these artifacts survived the past 25 years of conflict in Afghanistan is due to the heroism of Omara Khan Massoudi, the Director of the National Museum of Afghanistan. In 1988, when the Russians were preparing to invade Afghanistan, he foresaw the threat to the treasures in the museum and he and some trusted colleagues packed up the greatest treasures and hid them in safes under the Presidential Palace. They never spoke a word about them until 2003. It is difficult to imagine how hard their lives must have been during that time and how much personal gain they could have received from the hidden treasure. The museum was ransacked, artifacts destroyed by the Taleban and even shelled. Much of the Museum’s collection was destroyed, but these pieces remain in tact.

I cannot recommend the exhibition highly enough. The schedule in the US:
- National Gallery of Art (Washington, D.C.)
May 25 to September 7, 2008
- Asian Art Museum of San Francisco
October 24, 2008, to January 25, 2009
- The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
February 22 to May 17, 2009
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York)
June 23 to September 20, 2009

For more information on the exhibit see the current edition of National Geographic or read the article at: http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2008/06/afghan-treasures/atwood-text