Wednesday, August 27, 2008

First Impressions

Friday afternoon I woke up from a three-hour nap (jet lag has been killing me, so I finally compromised on my no-napping rule). I decided it was high-time to get out and see something of the city.

I took a taxi into the old quarter and meandered around some shops before heading towards the main market – which I knew would be closed by the time I arrived. As I walked along the streets dodging mopeds and trying to take in everything around me, I was very aware of one thing: no one was watching. Even though I was more often than not the only foreigner in sight, no one was staring. Even more surprising, no one was calling out to me to try and draw me into the shops or sell me something or beg for something. Even though there was what seemed to be poverty around me, no one was asking for anything. I was just left to my own devices – a very pleasant change from the usual harassment of travel in a development country.

As I adjusted to the lack of these distractions, I felt myself relaxing. I looked around at the interesting mixture of architecture, a jumble of old French colonial and Asian style. Most of the buildings in the Old quarter are very narrow and four stories tall. It turns out that at some point taxation was based on the width of the house and so houses are very narrow and long and tall. Just like my house in DC and for the very same reason!

I did find the mopeds buzzing everywhere a little disconcerting at first, but the longer I am here, the more I realize they actually good drivers and somehow manage to avoid crashing into pedestrians. Crossing the street is a bit harrowing at first as there is no break in the traffic so you just have to start walking and hope (expect) that the mopeds will avoid you.

Before heading back to the hotel, I decided to go for a massage. I went to a place recommended by the lonely planet, but now that I think about it, the Lonely Planet might not be the best source for recommending what are normally considered luxury items.. Are backpackers really experts on the finer things in life? (Yes, I guess I have changed since my days as a backpacker). Unfortunately in Vietnam ‘massage parlor’ is often code for other entertainments and while they do offer massage, for men towards the end of the experience they will place their hand in a key location and ask, “Happy ending?” My experience was not that uncomfortable but it certainly was odd. The girl sat on me – as in her bum was resting on the back of my thighs! I couldn’t figure out if this was normal because Vietnamese are so small and can’t reach the massage table or whether it was meant to be as suggestive as it came across to me. Either way I was definitely creeped out! I’m sure there are better options out there.

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