Liberian Welcome

I got off the plane in Monrovia to overwhelming heat and humidity and walked down the stairs onto the runway and under the plane (literally) to the terminal. I waited for what seemed like forever in a crowded airless room to go through customs. When I got up to the front of the line, I was greeted by a big smile and a warm hello from the customs official behind the desk – definitely not your average icy customs employee. I was feeling good and then walked out into the overcrowded baggage claim. My bag was one of the last off the plane – loaded by hand onto a rickety belt. My agitated state after the hassle of the luggage claim immediately disappeared when I went through the final customs check and realized that absolutely no one was asking for bribes. In Guinea, I would have been hassled all along for ‘some assistance’.

The one hour drive into downtown Monrovia was filled with interesting conversation with one of the project drivers. The Liberian English takes some getting used to but I think I understood most of what he said. He hinted at troubles he experienced as a driver for Medicin Sans Frontiers (Doctors without Borders) during the worst of the war. Most interestingly he spoke about Ellen Johnson-Sirleaf, the president of Liberia, and the first ever elected woman leader in Africa. He told me that she is achieving great things. That parts of Monrovia even have electricity now. That roads are slowly being rebuilt and that life is slowly getting better ‘small small’ for people here. He said that people believe that she should remain president for life. He also said that because of her great achievements, people are realizing the strength of women. I think he believed what he was saying, but I also know that he might have been saying what he thought I wanted to hear.

My first day in Liberia I had a chance to get out and about a bit to visit some beneficiaries of an apprentice training program. We visited some ex-combatants who are now working as mechanics and women workings as tailors and hair dressers. Unfortunately, there is just not enough training for everyone.

After one day here, I am really unsure about the future of Liberia. In some ways, the future looks rosy with a well-respected leader in place who is tackling corruption head on. On the other hand, ex-rebel leaders are serving as senators, there has only been a partial disarmament, and there are still many who believe that peace will last only as long as the 14,000 UN peacekeepers remain in Liberia.